The coal town that became Northern Exposure's Cicely pairs a 135-year-old working saloon, 26 National Register ethnic cemeteries, and Salmon La Sac wilderness access on the I-90 corridor two hours from Seattle.
Roslyn is a coal mining company town turned mountain gateway, sitting 80 miles east of Seattle in the foothills of the Cascades. The Northern Pacific Railroad built the town in 1886 to extract coal from the surrounding hills, and within 25 years Roslyn had a peak population of 4,000, one of the most diverse communities in Washington. Immigrant miners arrived from Poland, Italy, Slovenia, and England. After the 1888 labor strike, the Northern Pacific recruited 300 African American miners from Virginia, North Carolina, and Kentucky — and by 1890, Roslyn’s African American population was 22 percent, among the highest of any town in the state.
The last mine closed in 1963. What remained was a main street of brick buildings, 26 ethnic and lodge cemeteries clustered on the hillside above town, and a population that had settled back to under a thousand. In the 1990s, the town got a second look when Northern Exposure used its streets as a stand-in for Cicely, Alaska. The Roslyn Cafe camel mural, the KBHR radio station storefront, and Dr. Fleischman’s office are all still here.
Today Roslyn works as a two-hour drive from Seattle that rewards the effort. The Brick Saloon, open since 1889, is the oldest continuously operating saloon in Washington. Heritage Distilling and Roslyn Brewing Company have made the town a genuine drink-your-way-through-the-afternoon stop. And 19 miles north via Highway 903, the Salmon La Sac trailhead opens into the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest with access to the Waptus River corridor and the Pacific Crest Trail.
From Seattle, take I-90 east to Exit 80 (Cle Elum). From the exit, drive north through Cle Elum and follow Highway 903 approximately 7 miles to Roslyn. Total driving time is about 1 hour 30 minutes under normal conditions. Snoqualmie Pass can require chains or traction tires in winter and spring — check WSDOT road conditions before traveling.
From Ellensburg, take I-82 west to I-90 west, then Exit 80 north. About 40 minutes. From Wenatchee, take US-2 west to US-97 south to I-90 west and Exit 80 — about 1 hour 15 minutes.
Roslyn has no transit connection. A car is required. Cle Elum, 7 miles south, is the nearest full-service town for gas and groceries. Suncadia Resort is located on Highway 903 between Cle Elum and Roslyn.
The Brick opened in 1889 and has operated continuously since, making it the oldest saloon in Washington. Built with 45,000 bricks, it features a 23-foot running water spittoon and a basement jail cell visible from the dining area. Order a beer and read the walls — the building has more history per square foot than almost anywhere else in the state.
The camel mural on the side of the Roslyn Cafe is what most visitors come to see first. During filming, the production company added an apostrophe s to make it Roslyn's Cafe — it has since been restored to the original. The cafe at 201 W Pennsylvania Ave serves breakfast and lunch and is the right place to start a Northern Exposure walking tour of the main street.
On the hillside above town, 26 separate ethnic and fraternal lodge cemeteries occupy 15 acres, each representing a different immigrant community that came to work the mines. Added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1978, it is one of the most significant cultural sites in Kittitas County.
The former Northern Pacific Railroad corridor between Cle Elum and Roslyn has been converted to a 5.5-mile one-way trail with 453 feet of elevation gain. Interpretive markers document the history of the coal transport line. Open to hikers and mountain bikers spring through fall.
The Roslyn Museum holds the town's coal mining archives including equipment, photographs, and the story of the diverse workforce that made Roslyn one of the most integrated towns in Washington in the late 19th century. The African American mining community made up 22 percent of Roslyn's population in 1890.
Brewing German-style lagers since 1990, Roslyn Brewing uses Yakima Valley hops and Cascade snowmelt water. The taproom is open Friday through Sunday — noon to 7 Friday and Saturday, noon to 5:30 Sunday. The beer garden is the right place to be on a clear afternoon.
Nineteen miles north of Cle Elum via Highway 903, the Salmon La Sac trailhead sits at the confluence of the Cle Elum and Cooper Rivers in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. The Waptus River Trail runs 9 miles into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. The campground has 69 sites at $27 per night, open late May to mid-September.
“The Brick Saloon has been open since 1889 — it outlasted the coal mines, the railroad, and the Northern Exposure film crew.”
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A boutique hotel that opened in 2019, Hotel Roslyn sits one block from the main street at 103 W Washington Ave. King rooms, two-story townhome suites sleeping up to 6, and pet-friendly options are available. King patio units include a kitchenette and private outdoor seating.
Book at Hotel RoslynA full resort complex on Highway 903 between Cle Elum and Roslyn, Suncadia offers lodge rooms, condominiums, and vacation homes adjacent to Wenatchee National Forest. Golf, spa, and multiple restaurants on site.
Book at SuncadiaFind a Cabin Near Roslyn
The Brick Saloon (100 W Pennsylvania Ave) has operated continuously since 1889, making it the oldest saloon in Washington. Built with 45,000 bricks, it has a 23-foot running water spittoon, a basement jail cell, and a food menu covering burgers, fish and chips, and vegetarian options. Kids are welcome in the family dining area until 9 PM.
The Roslyn Cafe (201 W Pennsylvania Ave) is the Northern Exposure building. The camel mural on the side is the most photographed spot in town. The cafe serves homemade pies and hearty breakfasts. [VERIFY: current hours]
Roslyn Brewing Company (208 W Pennsylvania Ave) has brewed German-style lagers here since 1990, using Yakima Valley hops and Cascade snowmelt water. The taproom runs Friday through Sunday — noon to 7 Friday and Saturday, noon to 5:30 Sunday.
Heritage Distilling pours the Brown Sugar Bourbon that put Roslyn on the craft spirits map, along with a rotating spirits growler bar and full tasting room. [VERIFY: current Roslyn location hours at heritagedistilling.com]
Basecamp Books and Bites runs a coffee and baked goods shop alongside a curated bookstore. The adjoining Roslyn Yard has community fire pit seating, outdoor games, and summer outdoor movie screenings.
Each Memorial Day, Roslyn holds a community observance across its 26 ethnic and lodge cemeteries, honoring the miners and their families who shaped the town. One of the most historically meaningful public gatherings in Kittitas County.
The Coal Miners' Festival celebrates Roslyn's mining heritage with historical exhibits and community events honoring the workers who built the town. [VERIFY: current year dates at city of Roslyn]
An annual gathering honoring the African American community's historical contributions to Roslyn, commemorating miners recruited from Virginia, North Carolina, and Kentucky after the 1888 labor strike. [VERIFY: current year dates]
Cle Elum (7 miles south via Highway 903): The full-service anchor of the upper Kittitas Valley, with expanded dining options and the trailhead for the John Wayne Pioneer Trail.
Salmon La Sac (19 miles north via Highway 903): The end of the paved road into the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. The campground sits at the confluence of the Cle Elum and Cooper Rivers. Trailheads here access the Waptus River corridor and the Pacific Crest Trail. Open late May to mid-September.
Ellensburg (25 miles south): The Kittitas County seat and home to Central Washington University, with a walkable historic downtown and strong dining scene.
Leavenworth (approximately 50 miles northwest via US-2): The Bavarian-themed mountain town on the Wenatchee River, with year-round festivals and access to the Icicle River corridor.
Roslyn is a half-day to full-day destination. The main street covers three or four blocks and can be walked in an hour. Add lunch at The Brick, an afternoon at Heritage Distilling or the Brewing Company, and a walk through the cemetery above town, and you have a full day without leaving Roslyn proper.
Summer (June through September) is the primary season, with the Salmon La Sac campground open from late May to mid-September and full access to the Waptus River corridor trails. Winter closes the campground but Roslyn stays open year round. The Brick and the Brewing Company run through the cold months, and snowmobile trails operate nearby in season.
Lodging in town is limited to Hotel Roslyn and vacation rentals. Book ahead on summer weekends, when the Brick and the Brewing Company can fill up quickly. Suncadia Resort, 5 miles south on Highway 903, has lodge rooms and vacation homes if Roslyn proper is booked out.
Roslyn is known for three things: its role as a filming location for the 1990s TV series Northern Exposure, The Brick Saloon (the oldest continuously operating saloon in Washington, open since 1889), and its coal mining history including 26 ethnic cemeteries that reflect the diverse immigrant workforce who came to work the mines between 1886 and 1963.
Yes, especially as a half-day or full-day trip from Seattle or as part of an I-90 corridor itinerary. The main street is walkable in an hour, The Brick and Heritage Distilling alone justify the drive, and the cemetery above town is one of the most historically significant sites in Kittitas County.
Take I-90 east from Seattle to Exit 80 (Cle Elum), then drive north on Highway 903 approximately 7 miles to Roslyn. The drive takes about 1 hour 30 minutes in normal conditions. Check WSDOT for Snoqualmie Pass conditions in winter and spring.
Summer (June through September) is best for Salmon La Sac and the Waptus River corridor trails. Fall brings clear skies and autumn color along the Cle Elum River. The town runs year round but some businesses operate weekend-only hours in winter — check ahead.
950, according to the 2020 census. The town peaked at 4,000 residents in 1910 during the height of coal mining production.
The last coal mine in Roslyn closed in 1963, ending nearly 80 years of production. At its peak in 1910, the mines produced nearly 2 million tons of coal per year. The town gradually transitioned to forestry and eventually tourism.
Yes. Salmon La Sac Campground, 19 miles north of Cle Elum via Highway 903, offers 69 sites at the confluence of the Cle Elum and Cooper Rivers. Sites are $27 per night. Open from late May to mid-September.